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ホーム / ローズ・クリークについて / ネットリリース / フライボックス / コイルキーパー / 自然保護 / 秘けつ / 取扱店 / アルミ / ポリマー |
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Fly casting tips from Fly Casting Instructor, Bob Nasby 申し訳ございませんが、こちらは英語のみになります。 For anglers in the Midwest
region of the United States, Bob needs no introduction. But for others
around the world, I would like to introduce one of our region's best
fly casting instructors. Every month, Bob will reveal a partial segment
from his Fly Casting Course. He
is a special friend of mine, who has enhanced my enthusiasm for casting
long distances. We have shared many memorable days fly casting for smallmouth
bass on the St.Croix River, where Bob often guides, and also for tarpon
in the Florida Keys. Here's Bob with lesson #2 Lesson 2: The LOADING ZONE
This month we are going to discuss the loading of the fly rod. The first thing we do in my casting class is to set the students up with a 6 wt. fly rod with WF-6-F line and a 7 ? foot leader. We measure out the head length plus 5 feet and place a 10 inch long red mark on the fly line. If you remember from our last lesson the head length is the tip, front taper, belly, and rear taper. To locate the placement of the red mark, you need to find the end of the rear taper and measure out an additional 5 feet. (see fig.1) To find the end of the rear taper, locate the portion of fly line where the diameter is getting smaller as you go back from the tip. The end of the rear taper is the point where it stops getting smaller in diameter. This point should be quite noticeable without the use of a measuring device such as a micrometer, but if you have access to one, it may be helpful. With a permanent marking pen place a 10 inch long red mark 5 feet beyond the end of the rear taper. Now you are set up for casting. With the line extended out of the fly rod and your line hand on this mark, you have the correct amount of line to properly “load” the rod. We place the mark 5 feet past the rear taper because with an 8 or 9 foot fly rod, 3-4 feet of the rear taper will remain in the fly rod guides. Some of the rear taper should stay in the fly rod to get the “head” to turn over. With almost all of the fly line head out of the fly rod, the rod will “light up”. If you try to learn to cast with a short length of line out of the rod, you will never feel the rod “load” and you will never learn to cast a fly rod. You have to feel the rod load and you soon will learn you can lay a fly out with only one false cast. Most fly fishers false cast way too much. All show and no go. They false cast because they can’t feel the load. With the fly line lying straight out in front of you, with no slack in the line, and the rod tip to the ground/water you are now cleared for take off. Remember there are two parts to a cast. A back cast and a forward cast. When performing the back cast and the forward cast, I want you to think of the motion of starting a lawn mower. You start out slow and end up fast. You start the back cast by raising the rod tip up and back. When you see the line leave the surface, stop your hand. Do not- do not bend your wrist at all. Just think of how your wrist is when you start that mower or when you throw a dart - you don’t bend your wrist then, don’t bend your wrist now. The only thing that should bend is your elbow. As soon as you stop your hand, count 1-2-3 and come forward with a smooth acceleration and then stop your hand. Do not bend your wrist when you stop. Wait until you see the line in flight and then turn the thumb down just a little (approx. 1”). This will push the rod tip down just a bit to allow the line to pass over it. *Remember - accelerate just before the line leaves the ground/water on the back cast. Speed up, STOP your hand with your thumb just like your hitchhiking. Say 1-2-3, move your hand forward, accelerate - speed up - stop, count 1-2 then tip your thumb down approximately 1 inch and you just made a perfect cast (if you don’t bend your wrist). Remember - thumb on top of rod. Wherever your thumb points, that is where the tip goes and where the tip goes, that is where the line goes. If you snap the rod with a jerking motion, you kill the cast. Just stop your hand and do not bend the wrist. Bending the wrist is what all bad casters do. They think they have to snap the wrist. But, if you follow these instructions, you will soon make the perfect cast. The cast should feel just like fine silk. One last thing, trap the line under your index finger where the red mark is. You will know when you make that perfect cast, because the rod will want to jump out of your hand! Stay smooth - don’t bend the wrist and practice when you can (30 minutes is good). I teach casting about 3-5 times each week and I practice my casting at least 6 hours each week. I am very serious about my sport. I hope I have given you a different way to approach casting. This is just the beginning of our casting service. If you would like to talk to me about casting lessons, you can reach me at ( 651) 730- 5284. Next month, we will talk about casting and how to correct your problems. In the meantime, I would appreciate your comments or questions. You can contact me at bob@rose-creek.com.
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